River Wye and Wye Valley Walk

Plynlimon mountain, the source of the River Wye

Nick's account of the walk up Plynlimon

7:20 Friday morning we left Monmouth in the van. 5 adults & 2 dogs destined for Plynlimon Mountain - about 15 miles inland from Aberystwyth on the West Wales Coast. The Wye Walkers: Cees from Holland and Terence, Sam, Daryl & 2 dogs, Shadow and Jessie, a Doberman cross Collie and a Welsh Springer Spaniel, myself the delivery man. In the weeks running up to the expedition rainfall had been heavy and I was concerned the weather may deteriorate again.

We parked off a farmer's access track pointing up to the hills and set off without packs. I expected a short walk to the top of the stream. Off the track following the banks of the beautiful, stony, winding brook the land was boggy with big tussocks of grass to make you stumble one moment and engulf the foot the next. The mist came and the drizzle. We consulted the map and started to pick our way more carefully, keeping to higher, firmer ground. Many little streamlets trickled in.

What a harsh place to be in inclement weather. To emphasise the point I saw a lamb carcass, eyes and entrails removed by scavenging animals. When you are weak it is easy to lie down and give up, as this little fellow must have done. We saw large birds circling in the mist above. Larks would skip around in front of us but not yet singing for joy.

We passed by what looked like a man-made dam of boulders - breached years ago. Beyond we saw the head of the valley rise into a mountain and our little stream with it. A blotch of snow lay near the top. By now the sky was clearer as patches of sunlight raced over the landscape. I reached the snow and moistened my mouth with it. Then straight up to the top of the mountain to watch the others follow. We all met together at the spring. Sam drank from it. A swallow flew overhead. We looked out over the mountains of Wales. I thought of the Welsh chieftains planning their expeditions from this secure and inspiring landscape. Their characters must have been hard and passionate to live in a land like this. Sam shared out some chocolate, we took a few photographs and Cees rang his wife Hennie, in the flat land of Holland, on his mobile phone.

We had spent over two hours rising up the river - now we must get back more directly to the van and the rucksacks. We followed close to the ridge, slowly descending, collecting samples of stone along the way. Then, to our great joy, we saw a pair of Red Kites that rose, hovered and glided in front of us like a pre-arranged display. Hopefully they are nesting near here now. We got back to the van in one hour; I was very tired. We ate almost an entire fruitcake made by Sarah. There was a final re-arrangement of baggage and a feeding of dogs. The expedition loaded up and I departed in the van.